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PERFUME
(Attar) INDUSTRY IN KANNAUJ
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While
history hangs heavy in every corner, the present is no
less interesting in Kannauj. It has a thriving flavor
and fragrance industry. Many interesting stories abound
about how Kannauj came to occupy the center of this industry.
Harsha Vardhan himself was known to use perfumes and fragrant
and ointment. He encouraged and patronized the development
of fragrances. He also gifted fragrant material to outsiders
who visited him. That is how Kannauj's reputation as a
center of perfumery spread far and wide.
The traditional Deg-Bhapka method of attar making practiced
even today, bears striking resemblance to the ancient
distillation equipment at Taxila. Copper stills and receivers
are used. Great quantities of flowers or herbs are heated
and the vapours condensed and absorbed into a fixative
which is sandalwood oil. A large number of skilled workers
are engaged in attar making. They are adept in knowing
exactly when to step up the heat by inserting an extra
wooden log in the furnace, or when to arrest the distillation
by simply wrapping a wet cloth around the still. Methods
used are crude but effective. The attar when ready is
poured into circular camel leather bottles for sedimentation
and removal of moisture. Small baked clay teacups are
used as raw material to extract the delicate aroma that
emerges when rainwater falls on sun-parched soil. It is
one of those elusive fragrances that defies all description.
One simply has to experience it.
There are a few households engaged in producing special
medicinal attar called Hina. Each family has its own secret
recipe, which they guard zealously. There are experts
called "gandhis" whose job is to ascertain the
quality and pedigree of hina for the buyers. This they
are able to do with a fair degree of accuracy using only
their nostrils and olfactory faculty. Apart from its uses
in the perfume and cosmetic industry, the flavors of rose,
kewra and khus are used in sweetmeats, sherbets, Chewing
tobacco, Gutkha & snuff..
Kannauj grows a number of flowers. It then bears a strong
resemblance to Grasse near Caines of France where fields
of flowers roll out for miles. Interestingly, Kannauj
also accounts for 75 percent of the sandalwood oil production
of India. But sandalwood itself is brought all the way
from South India incurring heavy transportation costs.
Nobody seems to know why sandalwood could not be produced
in Kannauj itself. |
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